Archive for Advice on How to Avoid Dog Attacks

Respect Other People’s Fear of Dogs With Correct Lead Control

When dog owners have poor lead mechanics and control over walking their pet, their dog will invariably pull toward strangers.

Some strangers are fearful when dogs approach them and we’ve all met the dog owners who make the mistake of trying to comfort a person who is fearful by saying, “It’s okay, my dog is friendly, she won’t bite.”

This is not a comforting response to someone who is genuinely fearful of dogs or simply doesn’t like the idea of dogs being near them. Instead, make the person feel more comfortable by using your lead to sit your dog at your side and giving the person some space to pass. When a person sees a pulling dog and an owner being pulled off balance, the perception is lack of control.

By having your dog sit at your side, you are exhibiting to others that your dog is well trained and can be controlled. Senior citizens and parents with children are generally more apprehensive when dogs pull too close. A pulling dog, especially if it is a big dog, can be seen as aggressive rather than friendly even if YOU know your dog is being playful.
                                             
Proper lead control should also be implemented if your dog ipulls to greet a strange dog. Your dog may be friendly, but never assume someone else’s dog is. Sometimes the consequences of a dog pulling toward a strange dog can be dangerous if the strange dog is aggressive. If your dog is the one pulling toward another animal, any injuries sustained by your much loved pet would actually be down to a lack of proper training on your part.

Be patient with yourself as you learn lead mechanics. Lead handling is like learning to drive a car or playing an instrument - it will feel a little awkward at first, but with a little practice you will improve. Timing is everything. When puppies and dogs are out of control when out for a walk, it’s because the owner has no knowledge of lead handling. Use the lead as a tool of communication as you lead your puppy on your walks.

Many owners frustrate or confuse their dogs because of poor lead mechanics. The dog will only do what you are directing him to do. If you don’t know how to maneuver your dog, don’t expect your dog to read your mind. You will only frustrate your dog. Frustrated dogs either become more aggressive or learn to tune you out all together.

Smart lead handling is essential in the city, particularly in tight, congested areas. By learning how to maneuver your dog on lead, you not only keep your dog safe at your side, but you also are practicing good dog owner etiquette. Your dog won’t be a nuisance to other people and other dogs that you meet along the way.

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Possesive Aggression

Is Your Dog Possesive Aggressive?

Possesive DogPossessive aggression is often associated around a dog’s food, toys, treats, or any article that the dog may have stolen from you. This form of aggression can be aggrevated by compulsion (negative reinforcement such as smacking, shouting or aggression toward the dog).

The Scenario: A dog starts to growl when his owner approaches him while chewing his pig’s ear. You can correct this behaviour when you are prepared to teach the dog to act in a less defensive manner around his pig’s ear. The technique requires you to first offer the dog his pig’s ear, then walk away.

Get out one of your dog’s favourite treats, making it the best it can be, so it is much more appealing than the pig’s ear. Throw or drop the food directly in front of the dog and walk away. If the dog growls, however, as you approach him, walk away and leave no food. If the dog growled, you went too close to him and you should throw the treat from a distance, so as not to elicit any aggression from the dog.

You may decrease the space between you and the dog gradually. This process usually takes several weeks of slowly building the dog’s trust so that he understands you are approaching him to give, and not to take away from him. Generally, these sessions should be very short, but frequent. The treat is fabulous, but each repetition should only give the dog a small amount of food so as to keep him interested in learning how to earn greater rewards. Five or six repetitions per session with about four training sessions daily will generally do.

It is wise not to leave anything for the dog to “own” while you are training him. That includes toys, chews, beds, empty food bowls, and pigs’ ears. Provide the treats when you are practicing your approach conditioning. We will move along to the point where we drop the treats between his legs or have him directly take the food from your hand. We will proceed to the point where you can take his pig’s ear, give him a treat, and then return his pig’s ear to him to chew.

In this way you can functionally teach your dog to look forward to your approach when he has an object, and if necessary allow you to take the object with no anxiety or aggression from him. This will work only if you follow the procedure and do it slowly. After you have achieved success, continue this process intermittently forever. Also, note that a dog that knows how to drop something out of his mouth on command tends toward less possessive aggression.

It is critical that all members of your family participate in this program in order for the dog to generalize his correct behavior. Always be aware that this possessive aggression may arise again if an unforeseen incident provokes defensive actions on the part of your dog. Your dog’s aggression is an action that occurs in hopes that the target of his aggression will exhibit avoidance behaviors and walk or run away, therefore allowing him to fulfill his defensive drive.

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What To Do If You Think Your Dog Might Attack a Child or Another Animal

Dogs have travelled some distance  along the evolutionary road since the time when they hunted and killed for food. However, all dogs still have the ability and inclination to attack in certain circumstances. In some dogs, this drive is quite pronounced and dog owners must be able to recongise and control it.

Some breeds are still selectively bred for their tendency to chase or stalk prey and at least capture, if not kill and/or eat them. Notable among these are the Terriers, Dachshunds, sighthounds and various hunting breeds. It is no wonder then, that pet dogs occasionally succumb to their ancestral tendency, even without special training.

Dogs are often inadvertently trained to kill.

For example, some dog owners have urged their pets (sometimes playfully) to chase cats, squirrels and stray dogs.

These same owners are then often left horrified when their dogs bring home the neighbour’s lop-eared Rabbit as a trophy of the chase.

Sometimes other animals, usually cats, have “trained” dogs to become killers. They do this unknowingly by sitting on fences, rooftops, in trees or beyond fences, tantalising the dog from a safe vantage point. After enough of this teasing, the dog becomes sufficiently frustrated to attack an animal when the opportunity presents itself.

Dogs that kill other animals are usually, but not necessarily, of the excitable type and react aggressively or dominantly to other species or smaller dogs.

The killing of smaller dogs or cats by larger dogs can often occur in urban areas as a result of dogs not being given a lot of ‘natural’ exposure to animals which they might consider legitimate quarry.

Child deaths as a result of dog attacks (especially those committed by lone dogs) usually occurr at or within the dog’s “territory,” or have involved a child who has innocently given off visible or audible signs provoking the dog to ‘hunt’. Of course, this is NEVER the child’s fault and dog owners have a responsibility to ensure their pets are never given the opportunity to engage in the pursuit of what they might mistakenly consider to be legitimate quarry.

A small percentage of dogs are stimulated in the most primitive way by the screaming of any animal: their reaction is to kill that animal. Wild canines have killed members of their own pack that cry out after they have become trapped or are injured. The dog is, after all, an animal and animal instincts should never be underestimated.

Dogs that kill other animals should be differentiated from those with a fighting problem. Most dog fights end before either of the combatants is seriously injured. These episodes rarely result in the death of either dog. Predatory attacks aimed at killing the prey animal are deliberate, with the fangs aimed at the base of the prey’s neck just above the shoulders. If the prey is on its back, the soft flesh of the throat or belly is attacked. A predatory attack also usually includes violent shaking of the victim. Rarely does a domestic dog actually eat its kill, though some that prey on chickens and other fowl tend to do so more often that cat or dog killers.

Owners should recognise and understand their dog’s personality type. K9 Magazine has published a dog ownership personality test which can help with this.

Canine Personality Test - Requires Registration

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Dogs and Babies - Expert Advice

Start your preparations early

As soon as you know there is a new baby on the way, you and your family will begin to prepare yourselves for the changes ahead. Your family pet will also need to be prepared for the new arrival, as there will be alterations to the home environment and routine once the baby comes into the house. 

With a little forward planning, you can get your pet used to the changes well in advance, so that he should hardly notice any difference when the baby actually arrives.

You should start to make preparations four months in advance of the birth - do not leave it until the baby has arrived. The whole family can enjoy the benefits that having a pet can bring by following the advice in this leaflet.
 
How will your pet react?
If your pet has already experienced the arrival of a new baby, and has coped well, you should not have too many problems. However, if this is the first time your pet will be living with a new baby, then ask yourself the following questions:

• What sort of relationship will you have with your pet when the baby arrives?

• Once the baby comes, will you want to exclude your pet from certain areas of the house?

• Does your pet have any behavioural problems? If so, they may get worse once a baby has arrived. You should contact your vet for a referral to a pet behaviour counsellor if you need help. 

If you are happy with your pet’s behaviour, then you can proceed with the general advice given in this leaflet.

Before the baby is born

• Handling
Your pet should be able to tolerate being stroked around the chest, shoulders, back, legs, tail and head without any problems. Handling exercises are to be done when your pet is calm and quiet – do not turn these exercises into a game or the pet may learn to wriggle, struggle and play-bite.

• Sounds
Play tape recordings of a baby crying, gurgling and screaming for short periods, and always follow this with something your pet finds rewarding (e.g. give the dog a titbit or have a game). Repeat this procedure until the pet begins to associate the sudden onset of the crying noise with a treat.

• New smells and objects
Get the dog used to baby powder, soaps, shampoos and baby milk by using them in the home in the weeks leading up to the baby’s arrival. Playpens, cots, pushchairs, highchairs and changing mats should be in place before the baby arrives too.

• Exercise
When you walk your dog now, think about how much exercise he gets, if he pulls on the lead, comes back when called or whether he is aggressive to other dogs. Once the baby arrives you will have to manage any problems in addition to wheeling a pram or pushchair. In addition, new mothers may be in some physical discomfort after having the baby, so you will need to make sure that the dog can be physically controlled. If your dog pulls on the lead, you could purchase a harness or a head collar (e.g. a ‘Gentle Leader’) that helps to stop dogs pulling.

See how often friends or relatives might be willing to walk the dog while you are still pregnant. This will give you an indication of the amount of exercise he will receive if you are unable to take him out yourself. If you think the dog will receive shorter or fewer walks once the baby arrives then you need to change the routine a few weeks in advance.

If the dog gets fewer walks he will need to use up his energy some other way, otherwise he will get bored.

Bored dogs are not happy, and they may become stressed and destructive. Don’t try to make up for fewer walks by giving your dog more food treats. You will only make him overweight and unhealthy. Try to compensate for fewer walks by playing more games with him and consider paying a responsible dog-walker to take him out for you.

• Training
Get your dog used to staying at home without you, by leaving him for short periods initially, and slowly progressing to longer periods. Consider joining a dog-training class. Visit the class without your dog before you book and always make sure the trainer is friendly and uses kind, reward-based methods of instruction without the use of choke chains and punishment.

• Food
A large percentage of accidents occur when babies or toddlers approach a pet’s food bowl, or when the baby tries to take a dog’s bone or chew. Your pet will have to learn not to guard his food bowl and should learn how to take food treats gently – without grabbing the hand.  
 
• Attention
Your new baby will take up a lot of your time. You will have visitors to see the baby, including family, friends, and health visitors. Even the best parents in the world are unlikely to be able to give their dog the same amount of attention once the baby arrives. The pet will feel left out if it does not receive attention after the baby is born. Your pet will quickly learn to do things which force you to take notice of it (e.g. stealing nappies). 

The best way to prepare your dog for a change in the amount of attention he receives is to try and reduce any contrast between the amount of attention he will receive before and after the birth. In advance of the baby’s arrival, the dog should be taught to tolerate periods when he does not receive any attention from you.

You should regularly give your dog attention for 20 minutes. Then, when the 20 minutes is up, you should completely ignore the dog for the next 20 minutes (no verbal, physical or eye contact) as should anyone else in the household.

• Toys
Dog toys and baby toys are often made of similar materials. Some toys even make the same kind of noise, such as a squeak. It is not surprising then, that some dogs become confused about who owns the toy.

Limit the number of toys that your dog has to two or three and pick them up and put them out of reach at the end of a game. This will teach your dog that you are the one in charge of the games. In addition, it prevents the baby from accidentally picking up the dog’s toys and putting them in its mouth. Encourage your dog to give up their toy for you whenever you ask. Never be aggressive when you attempt to take the toy from the dog – otherwise you will teach him to guard his toys.

• A quiet place to go
Pets should always have a quiet, safe place to go to whenever they need to rest. This will be especially important to them once the baby arrives and eventually begins to toddle about. Dogs will need to be given their own space. Teach the dog to go to a place (e.g. a mat in the corner of a room). It can be close to you and makes the dog feel safe and happy. An indoor kennel (also known as a cage or dog crate) could also be considered for those times when the dog needs peace.

• Resting and sleeping places
You should decide if you intend to change where your pet currently rests and sleeps, once the baby has arrived. For example, if it lies on your sofa every evening and sleeps next to you in bed, are you happy for this to continue? If not, make all changes well in advance so the pet does not associate the change with the arrival of the baby.

• Health matters
Make sure that your dog is in good physical health. Your dog should also be free from fleas and worms. Any suspicions about illness or developing ailments should be checked out by a qualified veterinary surgeon. Any pain or irritation that the dog experiences will lower his threshold for aggression (i.e. if he is in pain, he will be less tolerant about being handled and more likely to growl, snap or bite).
 
After the baby is born

• First introductions
When a new mum meets the pet dog for the first time after coming out of hospital, the dog is probably going to be very excited. The best way to carry out this first introduction will be when the dog is tired – after a long walk and play session. Firstly, the dog should be reunited with the mother when she is not with the baby, as the dog is likely to get excited and jump up at her. Later, the baby should be introduced in a quiet room where the dog has few associations - not in a place where the dog usually sleeps or eats.

• Praise your dog
Associate the baby’s presence with positive, enjoyable experiences for your pet. When your pet is behaving well around the baby, give lots of gentle praise and tasty titbits. The first interaction should be under control with the baby being held in the adult’s arms and the dog allowed to sniff the child. The dog will appear interested for few seconds and will then lose interest. When he backs away you should praise him and give him a treat.

Carry on with the normal daily duties and routine and the dog should accept the new arrival readily. Pets will by very patient while you adapt to life with a new baby, so don’t forget to include them.

• Hygiene
People who do not have pets of their own may try and encourage you to rehome your pet due to hygiene. It is essential that your dog be treated for worms and fleas regularly, using products from your vet. Don’t leave dirty nappies on the floor, as they can cause the dog to wet or mess on that spot. Nappies can also be appetising for certain dogs, so it is essential that any ‘nappy bin’ has a sealed lid and is emptied regularly. Use antibacterial soap to clean your hands after feeding, grooming, cleaning or playing with your dog

• Supervision
Do not place the baby on the floor with the dog and never leave your dog unsupervised with a baby, not even for a second. This includes all dogs, even those with an excellent temperament. The use of a screen door for the baby’s nursery allows you to keep the door shut, but still see and hear the baby

• Toddlers
Pet owners should be aware that their baby will soon start crawling and toddling, and that it is important for them to remain vigilant once the child starts to move about of its own accord. It is especially important to provide the dog with a safe place to rest and relax, which is inaccessible to the toddler. This will avoid the situation where the dog is continually followed, cornered and pestered by the infant.

USEFUL LINKS:

www.bluecross.org.uk

Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors (APBC)
PO Box 46
Worcester
WORCS
WR8 9YS
www.apbc.org.uk

Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT)
PO Box 17
Kempsford
GL7 4WZ
www.apdt.co.uk

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Understand Canine Communication & Avoid Dog Attacks

What Your Dog is Trying to Tell You When They Bark - 10 Dog Barks Translated 

Unless you’re the proud of owner of a Basenji (the non-barking dog breed) there is every chance that once in a while your dog lets rip with a bark or barking session and you have no idea what they’re trying to say. Well wonder no more, we explain the common reasons behind 10 different dog barks….

1. Continuous rapid barking, midrange pitch: “Call the pack! There is a potential problem! Someone is coming into our territory!” Continuous barking but a bit slower and pitched lower: “The intruder [or danger] is very close. Get ready to defend yourself!”

2. Barking in rapid strings of three or four with pauses in between, midrange pitch: “I suspect that there may be a problem or an intruder near our territory. I think that the leader of the pack should look into it.”

3. Prolonged or incessant barking, with moderate to long intervals between each utterance: “Is there anybody there? I’m lonely and need companionship.” This is most often the response to confinement or being left alone for long periods of time.

4. One or two sharp short barks, midrange pitch: “Hello there!” This is the most typical greeting sound.

5. Single sharp short bark, lower midrange pitch: “Stop that!” This is often given by a mother dog when disciplining her puppies but may also indicate annoyance in any dog, such as when disturbed from sleep or if hair is pulled during grooming and so forth.

6. Single sharp short bark, higher midrange: “What’s this?” or “Huh?” This is a startled or surprised sound. If it is repeated two or three times its meaning changes to “Come look at this!” alerting the pack to a novel event. This same type of bark, but not quite as short and
sharp, is used to mean “Come here!” Many dogs will use this kind of bark at the door to indicate that they want to go out. Lowering the pitch to a relaxed midrange means “Terrific!” or some other similar expletive, such as “Oh, great!” My cairn terrier, for example, who loves to jump, will give this single bark of joy when sent over the high jump. Other dogs give this same bark when given their food dish.

7. Single yelp or very short high-pitched bark: “Ouch!” This is in response to a sudden, unexpected pain.

8. Series of yelps: “I’m hurting!” “I’m really scared” This is in response to severe fear and pain.

9. Stutter-bark, midrange pitch: If a dog’s bark were spelled “ruff,” the stutter-bark would be spelled “ar-ruff.” It means “Let’s play!” and is used to initiate playing behavior.

10. Rising bark: This is a bit hard to describe, although once you’ve heard it, it is unmistakable. It is usually a series of barks, each of which starts in the middle range but rises sharply in pitch - almost a bark-yelp, though not quite that high. It is a play bark, used during rough-and- tumble games, that shows excitement and translates as “This is fun!”

USEFUL LINKS:

Dog Training Articles

 

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How to Avoid Being Attacked by a Dog

written by Carol O’Herily 

In our profession, we deal with all manner of behavioural problems in dogs.  Since moving to the United Kingdom 3 years ago, we find that we’re called on more and more to deal with aggressive dogs.  In Australia, by far the most common problem was barking, followed then by aggression.  However, here we find that around 70% of inquiries are from owners trying to deal with aggressive dogs, with most instances of barking being directly associated with problems of separation when the owner leaves the house.  

My thoughts on the differences between the two countries are as follows:  Generally speaking: 

In Australia, because of the weather and the way we construct our houses, dogs spend a lot of time outside.  We generally have larger gardens and plant an abundance of trees and shrubs for their shade qualities.  Because we supply suitable terrain, we also have more wildlife inhabiting our gardens all year round, in the shape of large moths, mice, crickets, large beetles, lizards, ‘possums, grasshoppers, birds and frogs.  The dogs happily eat any or all of these on a daily basis.   They have a reasonably abundant, natural secondary food source.

In England, for the most part of the year, the weather is such that most dogs are mostly housed indoors.  The gardens are often well clipped or they die back in cold weather, affording little or no shelter for wildlife.  England also has an abundance of small copses or woods where the terrain is more attractive to wildlife, leaving the suburban gardens largely barren of such life.  Dogs are mostly walked on lead on cement footpaths, particularly in the cold weather.  These dogs have little or no chance to seek out a secondary food source. 

On a recent fact finding trip to Spain, we discovered that aggression in dogs is rare.  Our investigations revealed the following:

In Spain, the country is teeming with food and outdoor cafes.  Again, like Australia, the weather and terrain is conducive to outdoor living and teeming wildlife.  Stray dogs feed from the streets and for the most part, they look rather healthy.  The locals prefer to feed their own dogs in the same way they have for centuries ie leftovers from the family meal and the off cuts of the animals slaughtered for human consumption.  Commercial dog food is available but is used mainly by the expatriate population. 

The reason I’m speaking about food availability in the same breath as aggression in dogs is that I firmly believe, after years of dealing with dogs at risk, that the two are inextricably linked.  I believe this link goes a long way to providing an explanation for the “unprovoked attacks” or why the dog “suddenly turned” or bit a child “for no reason at all”.

There is always a reason – there can be any number of reasons why dogs become aggressive.  What we try to ascertain is how a fluffy, cuddly little puppy turns into a slathering, angry mess in such a short time.

Most of the problem dogs that we deal with are between the ages of 6 months to 30 months, though of course having said that, I can think of quite a few case histories where the dog was in the five to seven year age group.  There are sound reasons why this happens also:

CASE HISTORY

Angel, a Springer Spaniel owned by a gentle older couple started showing signs of aggression around the age of 5.  By the time she was 7, her owners were in despair and they contacted us.  They had owned Angel since she was a puppy, so the situation was heartbreaking.  Angel was rather overweight and it transpired that she shared most of her owners’ food as well as eating all of her own.   

She then discovered that if she guarded certain objects, she was given a treat to distract her while her owners retrieved the guarded item.  Dogs aren’t silly and it wasn’t too long before Angel discovered that if she guarded her item aggressively enough, she got more treats as her owners tried all different flavours to try to bribe her to give up her booty. 

This behaviour escalated to the point where Angel decided that the new cane furniture in the conservatory was hers and that her owners weren’t allowed to approach it.  She aggressively tore at the cane and attacked her owners if they approached.  We thought it prudent to move Angel away from her premises and bring her to our farm.  With her owners’ approval, we started Angel on a rehabilitation programme, which included a change to a natural diet, lots of swimming in the ponds and running in the fields.

It wasn’t too long before Angel was able to return home, happy, healthy, much slimmer and with her personality more in keeping with her name.

It appears that the onset of Angel’s aggression had a lot to do with the fact that she became overweight.  Her owner increased her exercise and reduced her food intake.  This would make sense to anybody, but instead of reducing her food intake, we changed her food and in so doing were able to get her to increase the amount of time she spent eating.  Dogs tend to be much more satisfied this way and rarely overeat on natural raw food.     


It’s impossible to speak in general terms about aggression.  Each case is different and individual peculiarities and personality types of both dog and owner have to be taken into consideration before embarking on any rehabilitation programme. 


The golden rule to follow when dealing with behavioural problems (particularly aggression) is if you treat a dog like a human, it won’t be long before the dog starts treating you like a dog.
 
Before the howls of disapproval start, let me reassure you that most dogs, thankfully, are born with lovely, middle-of-the-pack personalities.  They love life, people and dogs and are never a problem to anyone.  Since 75% of dogs are like this, there is a high chance that you have just such a dog and, bearing in mind the percentages, you may continue throughout your life to have dogs like this.   People who are lucky enough to have these dogs are often convinced that they know how to deal with dogs with problems, since what they’ve been doing with their own dogs all their life has worked beautifully.  It also explains why we find that so many books that are written about dog behaviour are centred on the behaviour and responses of these lovely-natured dogs.  What works with them however, doesn’t necessarily work with the 25% of dogs that fall out of this category.  These are the dogs with which we commonly deal.  I would love a penny for each time we’ve heard “I’ve had dogs all my life, but never one like this”.


This doesn’t surprises us.  I’m sorry to say that a happy-natured dog will teach you nothing about behavioural problems, whereas if you’re fortunate enough to own a “difficult dog” and you’re prepared to open your mind, you’ll be amazed at what transpires.  So bear in mind that the comments that I make don’t apply to the majority.  I speak for the silent minority of dogs that are being relinquished or destroyed at an alarming rate on a daily basis, leaving behind broken-hearted owners who followed all sorts of well-meaning advice, which was originally gleaned from the response of the majority.

The simple fact is a dog is a dog.  He will interpret your body language and voice tone in the only way he knows how and that is by his canine instinct.  He can’t go to the library or to the internet to find out about human behaviour.  He has no idea that he’s dealing with a different species.  We all know how humans behave; some of us go to great lengths to study human psychology – this is a university degree subject and yet we are of the same species.  So when we bring a different species into our lives, as humans we instinctively treat them as we do our own species.  So why are we surprised when dogs treat us like dogs?  We at least have the option of studying another species.

If you study dogs in multiples for any period of time, you will see that they have rules and boundaries, leaders and followers, minders and hunters, nurturers and the nurtured.  Their rules are simple, effective, cruel, instinctive and fashioned by Mother Nature with their survival in mind.  In their world, food = survival.  From their first blind fumbling at their mother’s teats they learn that if you don’t force your way to the food source, you’ll keep getting pushed to the end of the queue. 

There are parallels in our world – indeed, our expression “the higher they climb the harder they fall” describes the dilemma of most high profile people in our community.  At the top, they’re vulnerable but daren’t show it because those on the next rung of the ladder are watching and waiting for the opportunity to pounce on them, pick at them and probe into their lives until they succumb. 

This is the human race we’re talking about here; yet how different are we from dogs that ferociously attack, a sick, injured or vulnerable leader?  This behaviour is common in the animal world.  Dogs will hide an injury to avoid a physical confrontation.  Much research is being done on why whales beach themselves – but I often wonder if they were sacrificed so that the pod would survive.   You only need to watch chickens as they peck a fallen leader without mercy to understand the roots of our expression “the pecking order”.

We’ve also seen dogs that are frequently picked on by every dog they meet.  They are not initially the aggressors but after numerous “unprovoked attacks” by other dogs, they soon learn to get in first.  We view this as a warning that the victim is unwell.  A visit to a vet for a thorough check-up is the first recommendation we’d make in a case like this because dogs attack that which they perceive to be vulnerable.  An unwell dog will be emitting an odour, imperceptible to us but glaringly obvious to other dogs.  These attacks often happen after the dogs scent each other in greeting.  

For dogs, as for most animals, food is life and life is spent in search of food.  Almost everything they do is related to either the search for food, or the scramble for the place in the pack that ensures they achieve the biggest possible share.  They will mark their territory with their particular signature - their urine, faeces and glandular excretions and they will fight to protect those hunting grounds from trespassing predators.  From tiny pups they scent their way to their mother’s mouth after she’s recently eaten and push their way forward to lick and bite her mouth, anxious to be first for the regurgitated food.  They spend hours licking up the vital micronutrients they gathered in their fur and on their feet in their travels.  With this in mind, it’s not surprising that some dogs aggressively object when owners try bath them or wipe their wet, muddy feet. 


Let me be clear here.  I’m not crying “wolf”.  This is your domestic dog.  This is the animal that was born with the instinct to hunt, stalk, chase, kill, rip, tear and crunch live prey.  Nature fashioned them to feed mostly from ground-dwelling herbivores and the products of such life.  Their teeth, speed, digestive tract, hearing, peculiarities of sight and sense of smell are testimony to this.


Now put this perfect little creature, created by Nature, into our human world, take away his natural food and his own kind from whom he learns his survival skills and what do we have?  We have an animal that will follow his primal instincts to seek out and protect food, to protect himself from harm and to ensure he survives when faced with a threat.

 

If everything a dog does is about survival, why then would he bite when living in our world?  Surely he knows that the death sentence is the penalty for this crime? 


He can’t possibly know this.  He’s a dog and in his world his teeth are his life - without them, he dies.  He can no longer kill, rip, tear or crunch.  He can’t fight to keep his position in the pack to ensure he gets in early enough to eat what he needs to nourish his body.  If he has no teeth, what’s the point of lifting his lip to those that challenge or threaten him?  His challengers are hardly going to rush away in fright at the sight of shrivelled, empty gums.


A good set of teeth is the only tool a dog needs to survive.  It’s their version of the Swiss Army Knife.  The canines are the killing teeth and dogs instinctively protect them at all costs – they don’t risk them in a bite situation unless, as they see it, their very survival is at stake.  They use their teeth for all aspects of their life.  If they don’t, they can’t protect their food source (or hunting territory), which means that if they can’t hunt they can’t kill; if they can’t protect their kill, they don’t eat and if they don’t eat, they die.


Every dog attack on a human can be linked in some way to the above paragraph.  However, to clarify things a little further, let’s add in the human element.


Owners are instructed carefully by breeders to feed their puppy four or five times a day, mostly with a large variety of food.  At around 6 months of age, the frequency is reduced to once or twice a day, just at the time that the puppy is, not only in a growth period, but also being exercised more often.  At this stage too, owners commonly switch the puppy’s food to a more convenient, commercially produced type.  The puppy now has most of its adult teeth and the instinct to rip, tear and crunch items isn’t satisfied by the physicality of pellet or tinned food.  This is when the dog becomes destructive and starts to soil the house again after being toilet trained as a puppy.  As the puppy grows older more feeds are dropped and exercise is increased.  The result is a dog suffering greatly from food frustration.  Large breeds by their very size, suffer more than the little breeds.  It’s not that owners aren’t feeding their dogs; it’s just that the food given is inappropriate for the species and is usually either gulped down within seconds or unenthusiastically picked at over the course of the day. 


The dog will follow its primal instincts to search for and protect that which its body craves.  Its hunting territory isn’t of its choosing – a human’s house and garden, as a general rule, holds very little interest for the opportunistic hunter/scavenger/omnivore that is the domestic dog.  Hunger for their natural food sets in and this primal hunger not only consumes their every waking thought, but it governs a lot of their behaviour as well. 


This now is an explosive situation:


 

ATTACK

The photograph of the little girl in the newspaper clearly showed the bite of a large dog completely encircling her mouth and nose.  The article stated it was an unprovoked attack by the family dog, yet I’m sure if this case were investigated further it would reveal that the little girl had recently eaten something pungent, like sausage, chicken or fish.  Dogs know that the mouth is the food source to be licked or bitten to provoke regurgitation.

 

ATTACK

A dog broke out of its territory and attacked a little girl playing in the front of the house.  A child’s squeal sounds very like an animal in distress to a dog with the primal instincts to strike at the vulnerable.


 

ATTACK

This family’s 10 month old German Shepherd bitch attacked the pizza delivery man.  He was severely bitten and the dog ran behind the armchair with the pizza.  The dog aggressively repelled all attempts by the family to retrieve their dinner until she ate both the pizza and the box.  Once the food was gone, she reverted to her normal behaviour.  She had been stealing food since she was a puppy, despite being fed more than her recommended daily allowance of dry dog food.


 

ATTACK

There was yet another “unprovoked attack” on a small child which happened when the child was kissing and hugging the family dog.  This body language is very dangerous because it mimics the body language of a challenge from an underling.  You can see this time and again between dogs.  It starts in play and often ends in tears.  Pups continually try to roll each other over.  The victor then stands over the fallen and bites their necks.  This play is preparation for the challenges they will face in their adult world to defend their position they’ve worked hard to achieve.  In their mind, this position dictates the quality and amount of food available to them.       


 

ATTACK

A young woman laden with bags of groceries was returning to her high-rise apartment when she was “inexplicably” attacked and killed by two large dogs that escaped from a neighbouring apartment.  These dogs definitely would have had no secondary natural food source, since they were living in a high-rise apartment and would have been restrained on leashes for their walk.  They used the small window of opportunity to steal the product of the young woman’s “hunt”.


Tragically there are thousands of such case histories.  In most cases the dogs are destroyed without a thorough investigation and as a result, important information is lost.  Our social sensibilities demand that this action is taken.  Unlike dogs, we have legislation in place to protect the vulnerable but unless we try to understand the oddities of the canine species with which we share our lives, and change the way we interpret their behaviour, then all that will happen is more tragedy for the vulnerable, including the dogs.


This Article Was First Published in K9 Magazine Issue no 3 >>   

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About The Author
Carol O’Herily is a dog trainer with the well established Barkbusters training company. She is a respected author and trainer and has helped hundreds of dog owners with a variety of canine behavioural issues.

 

 

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